Automotive jacks are extremely unpredictable things: while they can easily help you raise your vehicle up to effect a tire change, for instance, they can also easily damage the very undercarriage of your beloved vehicle if and when you don’t pamper them (read: use them right). If you’d rather not bother with reading and are someone who enjoys the visual, here’s a detailed video about the entire process.
But that’s just the beginning – and certainly, the nicer-looking part. They can do all sorts of wicked-looking (and sounding) things to you, such as collapsing on your leg or chest – depending on which body part you’ve willingly given up for the hard love.
But, all that isn’t necessary – if you get your acts right and learn where not to place them. But, I’m Throttle – and not overly obsessed with the negative.
This is why I’ll also share at the end of this little chat of ours where the jack should actually go – for all vehicle types and, importantly, when used by various folks with different skill sets…from the ASE badge pompous MASTER mechanic to the middle-aged lady on her first drive trying to differentiate the coolant intake from the engine oil port
Shall we?
Plastic Body Panels or Bumper
First, never place a jack on plastic body panels or the bumper of any vehicle, no matter how solid they look or how tough and formidable they appear to be. These components aren’t structural and, irrespective of how they look, will break, bend, or crack under the vehicle’s weight once you place the jack and get busy with the business of lifting up the vehicle to achieve whatever aim you want with the vehicle up.
Engine or Transmission Pans
Second, the engine or transmission pans, under the vehicle, are generally exempt from jacks and the jacking process. These pans hold fluids necessary for the proper working of the vehicle and are generally not meant to bear load.
There’s an exception here, however. If you’re interested in removing a motor or transmission mount, for example, you may need to place a well-positioned jack in these places.
However, that isn’t done blindly, or directly for that matter. What happens is that a strong, flat, sturdy piece of wood is placed between them, and this acts as a wedge between the jack and the fluid pan in question. This way, the direct impact of the jack is dissipated across the woody chunk and not concentrated in a single place where a dent – and by extension, damage can be registered.
A word of warning here: any wood to be used here must be flat, super sturdy, and something that won’t flex under the weight of the vehicle. This is very important, and for this reason, it’s best left for those who have experience with this type of auto DIY job.
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Floorboards or Underbody
Third, thin floorboards or the vehicle’s underbody generally. These are thin sheet metal that can crush under the weight of the vehicle if you make the mistake of ever placing a jack there. As a matter of fact, the damage is often so precise that someone who observes it later would be excused for thinking that a large caliber bullet actually went through the place.
There are places that look solid, especially along this rail, for instance. These places look like they can actually hold significant weight, but don’t be fooled: any attempt to jack up the vehicle in these places will end in catastrophic tears and damage, even if not as perforative as other places with thinner floorboards or underbody sheet metal, generally.
Exhaust Components
Fourth, a vehicle’s exhaust components are another place where you should never place a jack, for whatever reason. The exhaust system, like the extension, pipes, and muffler, are made of relatively fragile materials and will give way without any form of hesitation if you let them bear the weight of a vehicle.
These components are designed for the singular purpose of taking out the exhaust gases out of the engine and nothing else. If you make the mistake of using them as jacking points, it will end in nothing but premium tears.
Fuel Tank
Fifth, like the vehicle’s exhaust components, the fuel tank is also made exclusively of relatively light metal or plastic, and its design isn’t meant to ever bear the vehicle’s load by means of a jack. The fuel tank’s main business is to keep fuel that powers the vehicle, nothing else.
No matter how tempting it may be to jack the vehicle by the fuel tank, always refrain from it: it will bring you nothing but grief and huge repair costs!
Where to Place A Jack
Now, done with the five places you should never jack up a vehicle and why, let’s take a close look at the places where you should actually place your jack and, importantly, why.
The Reinforced Pinch Welds
First, the reinforced pinch welds of your vehicle. These are the thick, folded metal ridges located just behind the front wheels and just ahead of the rear wheels. They are the manufacturer’s designated jacking points and are clearly indicated in the user manual of each vehicle. These points are reinforced especially to bear the weight of the vehicle, and for this reason, they should be your first call when looking for where to place a jack.
The Frame Rails
Second, if you have the need, the frame rails are another great place to position a jack and lift up your vehicle without any challenge. The frame rails are the solid, thick steel beams running along the undercarriage. These are part of the core of the vehicle and constitute its structural integrity. For that reason, they are solid and won’t give way for anything, making them a great place to position a jack if you ever have the need.
However, with this spot, always ensure that what you’re looking at is actually the frame and not thin sheet-metal body rails. For those who are relatively new to vehicles, this can be confusing. However, here’s a pro tip: the frame rails always run a little lower, on both sides, and are generally made of thicker gauge metal than the general underbody. For this reason, they look and appear visibly more solid.
The Subframe Mounts
Third, the subframe mounts are also a great place to position a jack, if you have the need. The subframes are distinct, independent units that connect to the vehicle’s frame itself. These heavy-duty metal pieces achieve this with the help of mounts, paired with internal bushings. Because these points are solid and capable of holding up the vehicle’s weight without any challenge, they are also a great way to jack up a vehicle if you need to raise your vehicle from that point.
The Rear Differential or Solid Axle
Fourth, the rear differential or rear solid axles are also a great place to affix a jack, if you have a solid wood block between the jack and the differential. If you are using a floor jack to lift the entire rear end at once, you can lift from the dead center of a solid rear axle or directly under the rear differential casing (though you should always check your specific vehicle manual first). But, generally, you should be good when you decide to lift up a vehicle here.
So, in Essence…
Placing a jack right when lifting a vehicle not only assures you of safely lifting the vehicle, it also ensures that no harm comes to you while you do it. Importantly, lifting a vehicle right also sees to it that the vehicle’s pan and general bodywork aren’t compromised in the process.
Getting it wrong is what you shouldn’t wish on your worst enemies, as the effects are often long-lasting and usually last for a lifetime.
Why pay a mechanic when you can simply Do It Yourself? This isn’t goodbye; catch ya on the next one!
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Throttle Lan
DIY Mechanic and Freelance Auto Writer