Ask Throttle: Clunking Noise, Guzzling, Et Al.

This is the debut edition of Ask Throttle – a means I decided to answer the many auto questions I receive on TikTok and Instagram.

These questions, drawn from vehicle owners (and car lovers generally) have been lightly edited for grammar and consistency. However, I do all within my power to keep their form exactly as their authors intended so, I don’t cut off details.

Personally identifiable information has also been removed to make certain that privacy is guaranteed.

Enough of the talk: straight to the issues.

Issue I: Strange, Persistent Clunk Over Bad Roads

Good morning boss. It’s been a while. Please, I drive a Toyota Corolla 2008. I noticed a clunking noise when I drive through speed bumps. I took the vehicle to the mechanic and changed the stabilizer links but the issue is now worse. It’s on the driver side. Any guide? Thank you, sir.

SirXXX via TikTok DM

Possible Solutions to Strange, Persistent Clunks

It appears (to me) that the noise becoming worse is simply a coincidence – or progression of the issue and not necessarily because of the replacement made to the stabilizer links.

That said, I believe your mechanic simply threw parts on the vehicle without figuring out what was wrong, first.

Here are some things that could cause ‘clunking’ on your vehicle:

1. A loose brake caliper or a unit with a compromised brake caliper guide pin: this is the most underrated reason for clunks. Fortunately, a fix is as simple as getting the brake caliper torqued properly or the guide pin fired in rightly. First, check this, or, be sure to be around when your mechanic checks it (for obvious reasons).
2. A bad motor mount could also be responsible. Since the noise is specific to the driver’s side, start by checking the transmission mount – it likely has gone bad.
3. Your shocks, especially the front left unit may be out – or on its way out. This is also a potential suspect.
4. While around the shock area, take a good look at the strut mount too, with emphasis on the integrity of the assembly, especially if work was done there recently. Most mechanics mess this up, especially when it comes to reassembly.

These are all possible causes, based on what you reported but you’ll need to narrow them down to one (or in rare cases, two) with an experienced mechanic. It rarely is a 100% clear-cut case with remote diagnostics.

As an important tip, always fix motor issues as they arise – it makes it super easy to detect/diagnose when new ones pop up.

Good luck!

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Issue II: Zero Gear Engagement When Cold

Good evening. Please, where do you reside? I have a problem with my Lexus ES330, 05. The ‘D’ gear shift doesn’t work unless it’s warmed up for a long time.

IfeXXX via Instagram DM

Possible Solution to Delayed Gear Engagement

There are about three issues that could potentially cause this, especially on that Toyota U660E transmission.

The one I’m offering now is the most common and cheapest fix: confirm that the right tranny fluid is in the vehicle and also, in the right quantity.

For reference, I’ve always preferred the Valvoline MaxLife, being in my experience better than the original WS.

This is what I suspect could be your issue: wrong fluid type that is too viscous to flow through the tiny pores of the system at cold starts, forcing the hydraulic pressure necessary for the gears to only open up and do its job when the fluid is warmer and less viscous.

Or, low fluid, causing similar effects.

With the info provided, this is a remedial first step that will likely work. This has also sorted more than 90% of vehicle issues I handled displaying similar challenges.

While at it, you may wish to change the tranny filter too – if you haven’t done so in recent times.

Good luck!

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Issue III: Fuel Guzzling No Matter What’s Done

Good evening sir. I own a Lexus ES330, 2006. The vehicle consumes too much fuel. I have changed almost everything in the car yet it still consumes much fuel. I don’t know what to do.

ProXXX via Instagram DM

Possible Solution to ES330 Fuel Guzzling

This is my exact daily driver, ProXXX…I beseech thee to send me all the parts you’ve changed so that I can keep in my store of spares…who knows?

On a serious note: your vehicle is a V6 – and ordinarily, will not be as fuel efficient as a Yaris or Prius…so, what you deem to be ‘high’ might be exactly the quantity of gas/mile the vehicle was designed to take.

For reference, 16-24 MPG is well within range. I’ll only begin to sweat when things go lower than this. But, of course, if you live in a traffic-prone area or have a heavy foot, 10 MPG is perfectly ‘normal’!

That said, I’ll only be able to conclusively point out what you’re missing if I know what you’ve changed already, your current MPG, your driving style, and where you live/drive.

Good luck!

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Issue IV: Randomly Burning Cars

Why Do Cars Burn? I Saw an ES350, parked and it just started burning. Why is that?

BigXXX via Instagram Comments

Solution to Randomly Burning Cars

Excepting a few cars with factory defects, cars DON’T just burn on their own, especially when parked. The only reason this happens is ignorance, carelessness, stupidity, or a dose of all three combined.

I’ve seen rewires bypass fuses and motor owners modify their vehicles electrically in a manner the car wasn’t meant for.

For a vehicle without functional fuses and a ton of other cheap after-market installations (lights, sound systems, etc), what you explained is simply a disaster waiting to happen.

Keep your car as stock as possible (especially electrically); replace fuses with the same rating on units needing replacement (a fuse is the weakest point in a circuit for a reason, don’t make it the ‘strongest’), use the same gauge of wire for repairs (as recommended by the manufacturer) and importantly, only qualified folks should handle your car.

Cars don’t just burn!

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Issue V: Evap Small Leak Detected

Please, my vehicle is giving the ‘evap code’ saying there’s a small leak detected. How and where can I get a smoke machine to trace the leakage? Thanks alot.

Joshua via The Ask Throttle Form

Permanent Solution to Stubborn Evap Codes

‘Small’ evap leaks are notoriously hard to find and fix – and you’re right; a smoke machine is the only thing I know that can adequately pinpoint where they’re coming from.

A hard and manual way is to check the vacuum lines directly (I hope it’s a 4-cylinder inline engine).

If it’s a V6 (and above) or your engine bay is stuffed, best to use a smoke machine.

I have eyes on the Ancel S3000 (myself) and will hopefully buy it before the year runs out.

Good luck!

Wrap Up

I broke a rule today: the last two questions were drawn from the video I shared about 24 hours ago.

I did this because they represent the first comments I got when I announced the Ask Throttle Initiative, so I wanted to encourage them.

Going further, it will be strictly on a first come first served basis – there’ll be no further exceptions.

That’s it for this Sunday…keep a date next week as I take on and publish S1E2 of Ask Throttle.

If you have a question relating to the five auto questions treated here, ask in the comment below and I’ll do my best to clarify.

If your question was treated here and you need clarification, please do not contact me directly: simply reply here as a comment and I’ll follow up till you have your answer.

If you’ll love to ask a new question, use the Ask Throttle form on this page.

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